Scotland

Linda & Helen
September 15- 28, 2009
Scotland: Newtonmore, Inverness, Oban, Edinburgh

For those who read this blog and are not 'boglies' a number of the pictures at the beginning of this blog have to do with a wonderful Scottish tv series, Monarch of the Glen. A marvelous treat that has brought together many lovers of the shows from around the world. We gathered first online to talk about the show, but over the years have continued to stay in touch and have made friendships that surpass the tv series, but we all share a love of Scotland. When others learned of the trip Helen and I were planning, we received great support in our endeavor, for which we are truly grateful.

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First things first, we rented a car (a Merc ... mercedes-benz!), and my first concern was getting out of the airport and going north. I had made some 'google maps' - Mary said that Bruce made maps for entering and exiting the cities and towns they were going to visit. Hope his were better than mine, cause google just didn't 'name' the routes like the Scots did! Thankfully a gentleman that lived in Edinburgh was sitting with us on our last leg of flight, Amsterdam to Edinburgh, and he suggested that I just follow the signs for "Forth Bridge Street" ... praise be, his directions got us going in correct direction and after that it was fairly easy. Driving on 'wrong' side: not so hard to stay in correct lane, problem was me knowing how to stay in center of my lane - poor Helen, I kept erring to the left and going over the "turtles" (you know, those little round things that let you know you're getting out of your lane) or worst, running up against a curb.

But we made it to our first B&B, Clune House, Newtonmore. By far the nicest one we stayed in. Couple running it, Bruce and Mary (hmmm, sound familiar?) were terrific and took an interest in us and our trip, plus served great food, most of it locally made.

Bruce, Mary and 'molly'

After getting settled in, we made our way down Main Street and found a nice pub/hotel, Glen House. We rejected the staid dining room for the pub, which seemed to be 'rocking.' Since all tables were taken the owner asked an older couple if we could join them, They were Scots who had moved to England, but came up on holiday for a week or so each year. Helen says we must, of course, eat traditional Scottish food. So first meal was Cullen Skink (haddock and potato soup - a very traditional dish) and a 'child's order' of fish 'n chips. The soup was terrific (wasn't so sure about ordering it) and enjoyed the fish - too full to eat the chips.

The second day we start out on our first adventure, many things on the agenda, but getting to the "sandy beach" was at the top of our list. Of course everyone had told us there was no way we'd get to see the 'big house,' but we knew we had to walk on the beach at least.

Loch Laggan (sandy beach)

From Scotland

Well, Helen told you the story of how we got a ride up (were our B&B couple surprised!). Talking with several different people we learned that the current owner was coming up that weekend with friends for a stalking; plus we learned that the back part of Ardverikie had been gutted (too much damp, for one thing) and there was a lot of scaffolding and many workers.

Our first look at Ardverikie

From Scotland

So we got to walk all around the grounds, taking pictures (I even took a couple of quick shots through the window).

From Scotland

From Scotland

After we had been there nosing around for about 20 minutes, a young lass (so reminded me of Iona, slim, long dark hair pulled back), came to the door (and we thought no one was about!!), but when we told her that "Mark" had brought us up, she allowed that since the 'office' knew about it, then she'd let us be. (If I had thought the house was occupied I'd surely not have taken the photos! Shouldn't have in any account.)



view from front door


Molly's retreat, in ruins

And then Helen and I got to walk the three miles back. It was a lovely walk, saw some dark 'peaty' streams, reforesting in progress. And I picked some heather and fern from along the road, finding a blue string to tie it together. It's dried now and sits above my computer as I write.

We got back to the Gatehouse Lodge and our car, and headed down road to find Cille Choirill. Along the way we saw the path that would take us to the 'marriage hill', but since we'd just walked 3 miles thought we'd save that for a later time. Not too far further we saw the sign for the cemetery. Up a very small road, no, perhaps a large path(!), we rounded up the hill to the very lovely church and cemetery.


Cille Choirill


looking up, from church


oldest stone marker, 1600 - deer hunter and bar
pointed out to us by caretaker

This place has to be the highlight of my trip. A secluded site, atop a small hill, amidst larger hills (mountains). A few sheep, a lone cemetery gardener. What a setting. It was like being halfway to heaven!

Alas, we must leave. Our hosts had recommended we head to Ft William, and mentioned the "Commando Memorial." What a superb site. She hadn't mentioned the beautiful panoramic view. The memorial itself was immense and powerful. I took pictures, but they fall short of my experience.


views from "Commando Memorial"

Then off to Ft Williams, walking around the small town, doing a bit of shopping. Yes, we did do a bit of shopping.

Time to head home. Not enough time to do all the things we had on our list, but what we did we loved.

Again, to the Glen House for dinner. Tonight we try the traditional Neeps, Haggis & ???. (Mary, our Clune hostess saw my blog and wrote the the meal was: Haggis, Neeps, & Tatties!) I do remember is was good; And again we sat with our new friends, Helen & Terry, and formed a team for the Thursday nite 'games.' Each team had to answer sets of questions, some sets containing 8 - 10 questions. Short breaks in between. Having Scots and Americans on one team should have made it a clear win for us. One set of questions was musical, they played tunes from tv shows and we had to guess the name of the series. Helen and I almost died laughing when we heard the theme for MOTG!

No win, but great fun. Then time to return 'home.' The one thing I haven't mentioned is that Helen was getting NO sleep. Too keyed up? Don't know, but I don't know how she kept going. The third night, I think, finally a bit of rest for her.

I'm ending for now. Hope the pictures come through. If you only knew the problems I've had with the pictures.....

Linda